We now have a closure for the machined mast opening in our stock Kenyon spar where the slugs/slides are fed in. Our spar seems typical, in that once the slides were pushed upward into the slot, a “slug stop” with a screw tightener is put in place just above the opening. This prevents the slides (and the whole sail) from falling out when the Main is lowered.
This also necessitates having a crew go forward when reefing, and remove the “stop” so that enough slides can drop out to enable the reef tack “floppy ring” to get close enough to the gooseneck Reef Horn.
When dropping the main to end the day’s sailing, it often occurs that the whole main, i.e. the rest of the slugs, also will drop out of the mast slot. Some times it can all get a bit tricky to re-flake the main on the boom at the end of a sail.
Added sail info: our North-installed sail slides are Banbridge A017.
I have been a little envious of boats with mains that used a scheme to have the tack reef drop down without removing the slugs. Some use a “jack line” to connect several of the lower slugs/grommets and accomplish this, and others use a “slot closure” device to let all the slugs fall down all the way to the goose neck (close enough for at least one reef to be taken in easily).
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There is a fellow (and enthusiastic small boat sailor) at “MastGates” who makes slot closures for smaller boats - usually trailerable - and stated he can also do this for larger spars as well. We traded emails clarifying spar information. He finally said he wanted to make one that pressed into the slot, using 3D printing.
He quote me a cost of a bit over $100, and what I received was rather flexible plastic piece that seemed to work by inserting into the machined slot , but turned out to be actually a “trial fit” and would require another payment for a stronger printed-out part that would be the final part. I felt that there was a misunderstanding of what would be the provided “solution” for XX dollars paid. I asked him to please clarify what would be the final amount of payment and to clarify what he was making, for what I would eventually have to pay.
I never heard from him again.
My gues/intuition is that in trying to adapt a part or concept to a “larger” spar, he found himself out of his usual “machinist comfort zone,” and got tired of trading emails.
__________________________
So, I ordered up a pair of SS parts, stamped and hole punched just right, from Rig Right. Their site illustrates only the shorter version, with two holes per side and not the three holes in the 6” version that I actually bought. Cost was about $200. with S/H.
It fits perfectly, I should note. “Perfect” is actually not quite the word, but close enough. I do find some of the larger/longer slugs that match the longer battens do have to be ‘jogged’ a little bit, when hoisting. They might have a larger diameter shape diameter, by about a gnat’s eye lash.
**Install Note: you MUST use a center punch before attempting to drill any of the six holes in that shiny aluminum curved mast surface. Note B: following some advice from machinist friend, I also used my variable-speed battery drill motor to run the well-lubed tap for each hole @ very slow speed -- much easier than twisting on the old T handle part.
I will also append a photo of the same spar on a friend’s boat, with a home made similar solution. So there’s no one ‘right’ answer.
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And- some info from the Rig Right web site, where this part may be found with some searching — not the best indexed site I’ve seen.
Edit: Adding some photos of the "printed out" trial part, meant to be (presumably) subsequently printed out in a stronger plastic. Then pressed into the mast slot. Actually, I am not sure this would really have enough ID for some of the slightly larger slides to move thru it. All is old history now, but the concept is interesting and might work for s smaller spar..
Their description: Sailgate Slide Conversion Kit for 6" Gate: K-11754K:
This also necessitates having a crew go forward when reefing, and remove the “stop” so that enough slides can drop out to enable the reef tack “floppy ring” to get close enough to the gooseneck Reef Horn.
When dropping the main to end the day’s sailing, it often occurs that the whole main, i.e. the rest of the slugs, also will drop out of the mast slot. Some times it can all get a bit tricky to re-flake the main on the boom at the end of a sail.
Added sail info: our North-installed sail slides are Banbridge A017.
I have been a little envious of boats with mains that used a scheme to have the tack reef drop down without removing the slugs. Some use a “jack line” to connect several of the lower slugs/grommets and accomplish this, and others use a “slot closure” device to let all the slugs fall down all the way to the goose neck (close enough for at least one reef to be taken in easily).
______________
There is a fellow (and enthusiastic small boat sailor) at “MastGates” who makes slot closures for smaller boats - usually trailerable - and stated he can also do this for larger spars as well. We traded emails clarifying spar information. He finally said he wanted to make one that pressed into the slot, using 3D printing.
He quote me a cost of a bit over $100, and what I received was rather flexible plastic piece that seemed to work by inserting into the machined slot , but turned out to be actually a “trial fit” and would require another payment for a stronger printed-out part that would be the final part. I felt that there was a misunderstanding of what would be the provided “solution” for XX dollars paid. I asked him to please clarify what would be the final amount of payment and to clarify what he was making, for what I would eventually have to pay.
I never heard from him again.
My gues/intuition is that in trying to adapt a part or concept to a “larger” spar, he found himself out of his usual “machinist comfort zone,” and got tired of trading emails.
__________________________
So, I ordered up a pair of SS parts, stamped and hole punched just right, from Rig Right. Their site illustrates only the shorter version, with two holes per side and not the three holes in the 6” version that I actually bought. Cost was about $200. with S/H.
It fits perfectly, I should note. “Perfect” is actually not quite the word, but close enough. I do find some of the larger/longer slugs that match the longer battens do have to be ‘jogged’ a little bit, when hoisting. They might have a larger diameter shape diameter, by about a gnat’s eye lash.
**Install Note: you MUST use a center punch before attempting to drill any of the six holes in that shiny aluminum curved mast surface. Note B: following some advice from machinist friend, I also used my variable-speed battery drill motor to run the well-lubed tap for each hole @ very slow speed -- much easier than twisting on the old T handle part.
I will also append a photo of the same spar on a friend’s boat, with a home made similar solution. So there’s no one ‘right’ answer.
________________________
And- some info from the Rig Right web site, where this part may be found with some searching — not the best indexed site I’ve seen.
Edit: Adding some photos of the "printed out" trial part, meant to be (presumably) subsequently printed out in a stronger plastic. Then pressed into the mast slot. Actually, I am not sure this would really have enough ID for some of the slightly larger slides to move thru it. All is old history now, but the concept is interesting and might work for s smaller spar..
Their description: Sailgate Slide Conversion Kit for 6" Gate: K-11754K:
| They only show a picure of the shorter slot version, by the way. |
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Slot Closure in place.JPG -
Other O-34 Kenyon.JPG -
Insert top view.JPG -
End View.JPG
