jib sheets 38-200

[Offshore1]

perhaps to much time on my hands but looking at replacing my 14 year old jib sheets on a 38-200. I've calculated total 150ft. and looking at 5/8 diameter I'm just curious what size other owners are using.
thanks
jim

Hi -

I replaced the genoa sheets on our 39B 2 years ago with the new Yale Cordage Ph.D Racer rope. It is a very light sheet and makes tacking and gybing easier. It is "sticky" on the winch drums and its bulky diameter is fuzzy and soft until loaded. I love my Genoa sheets!

1/2 inch is the largest diameter they offer (it feels much bigger) but with 13,300 lb breaking strength - it's more than strong enough!

150 feet is a lot of rope... I think I did 95 or 100 feet - on a continuous line

 

[David Grimm]

Christian, I agree, the pesky bowline knots always get jamed up on something while making a tack. Anyone here use New England Ropes sta-set 1/2 inch for jib sheets? I just grabbed 120 feet of it only to find out my halyard is sta-set x ⁷/8.

 

[Christian Williams]

That's probably what I have for genoa sheets--at least I know it's 1/2". That size works well for me.

 

[Geoff W.]

I've got sta set 1/2 for my jib sheets on the 32-3. Might be slightly overkill but you touch those sheets a lot, and they feel solid to grab and winch. 7/8" halyard is beefy!!

 

[David Grimm]

I've got sta set 1/2 for my jib sheets on the 32-3. Might be slightly overkill but you touch those sheets a lot, and they feel solid to grab and winch. 7/8" halyard is beefy!!

Oops. I meant 7/16th. That's 1/16th less than 1/2 inch.

 

[steven]

to while away the hours on dull on-line business meetings I have learned to tie an alpine butterfly loop knot without looking in under 20 seconds.
Makes a pretty no-slip loop.

 

[steven]

. . . and today I used it to temporarily belay the topping lift while I fix the leads to get it to a cleat.

 

[Rocinante33]

I wasn't familiar with that knot, but it sure looks like a good one;

The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. Wikipedia
Category: Loop
Typical use: Fixed loop on the bight. Isolating a worn section of rope

Alpine Butterfly Loop

The Alpine Butterfly Loop provides a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. Load can be safely applied: from the loop to either end of the rope; between the two ends with the loop hanging free; or to the loop with the load spread between the two ends.

www.animatedknots.com

 

[Navman]

Does anyone know the diameter for the main halyard on an E-38? The spec sheet says 3/8" but that seems small to me.

 

[David Grimm]

As per my 38-200 and the recommended size on Sailrite. Sta-set x 7/16ths.

 

[Navman]

Thanks Dave. The spec sheet says 7/16 for the sheets but 3/8ths for the halyard. Seemed that 7/16 would be the size. I just want to make sure as I am not near the boat and I want to still be able to use the original clutches.

 

[Seth]

Hi Jim-
What kind of rope are you thinking? 75' per side seems a little excessive, how did you come to that?
Chris

70 feet per side is a bit more than you need, certainly no need for 75 feet per side. 138'-140' total is about right. 5/8' is to big and heavy, 1/2" is what I would use for this boat. The factory sheets were 7/16" IIRC, but the line quality is so much improved these days I would likely go 1/2", unless you feel it is too small for your hands

 

[David Grimm]

Main halyard 35-40 foot. 7/16. Sta-set x. Cruising.

 

[Dan Morehouse]

Main halyard 35-40 foot. 7/16. Sta-set x. Cruising.

Hmmm. I just bought a 7/16 pre-made main halyard for my 1981 E38 from Defender, brand "Novabraid", which included a headboard shackle spliced to the line. I was a little dismayed to see the splice appeared to increase the diameter of the line to over a half inch. I had climbed my mast to measure the sheave a couple weeks ago, and the width was 9/16, and now I'm afraid the line will bind as the splice passes over the sheave near the top of the hoist. I hope I'm wrong. My current halyard is a line/cable spliced assembly which was on the boat when I bought it 13 years ago, and which I've been dying to get rid of. If the new one doesn't work, I'm going to be well & truly stuck.

Dan Morehouse
1981 E38 "Next Exit"

 

[Loren Beach]

That sheave-jamming problem with the added thickness from the splice "bury" is why I chose to use a "halyard knot" to secure the line to shackles. I replaced all of our OEM wire/rope halyards about 20 years ago.
Having no splice also makes it easier to remove the halyard periodically to wash it, and then reverse it when putting it back.

The "proper" splice is stronger, but there is a price to pay. And then, modern hi tech line is so darned strong that even potentially losing some ultimate strength for a knot is not consequential when my T-900 5/16 halyards are rated at approx. 7K pounds, (Roughly equal to my SS shroud wires.)

Be sure, if you can do so, to check your masthead sheaves with various thickness of lines to see what can run thru them. I found that 3/8 was binding a bit on the masthead cheeks, and so went with the 5/16. Your sheaves are likely wider than ours.....

 

[Christian Williams]

Here's what my halyard splice looks like. The line is what, 7/16 Dyneema?

Looks fat, but no problem. Give it a try.

 

[Dan Morehouse]

Here's what my halyard splice looks like. The line is what, 7/16 Dyneema?

Looks fat, but no problem. Give it a try.

View attachment 38189

I will. If it hangs up, I can always cut the shackle splice out & go to a knot instead. This line is a polyester braid over a Spectra core, looks very similar to your picture.

 

[K2MSmith]

I’m replacing my jib sheets also and I’m tempted to try a single sheet with a larks head . It seems cleaner but maybe I’m overthinking this but if you use a larks head, you may want to make sure the clue on your sails have a metal ring attachment . If just has reinforced hole for tying the sheets , the knot will compress the sail material.
see video at 00:51 . I would use a bowline in a sail clue like this .

or maybe the butterfly knot as Keith mentioned because the butterfly and bowlines hold a loop .

 

[kiwisailor]

I’m replacing my jib sheets also and I’m tempted to try a single sheet with a larks head . It seems cleaner but maybe I’m overthinking this but if you use a larks head, you may want to make sure the clue on your sails have a metal ring attachment . If just has reinforced hole for tying the sheets , the knot will compress the sail material.
see video at 00:51 . I would use a bowline in a sail clue like this .

or maybe the butterfly knot as Keith mentioned because the butterfly and bowlines hold a loop .

That's how I have my genoa sheet setup. One long sheet, less snagging when tacking.

 

[Loren Beach]

Larks Head or "cow hitch". I have found that this works well to prevent the snag of a regular knot from catching on shrouds during tacks. I doubt that the clew cares how the sheet is tied -- many layers of fabric & stitching there already plus the ss eye. If not for the expense, I would have replaced our long sheet after I was forced to *cut it right at the hitch when we had an override in heavy air with a shoreline coming up immediately. It was in good shape and kind of expensive.
Changing to two sheets with bowline knots works fine, and we are not racing so another second getting the genoa across is not significant.
The single sheet with the more-subtle fastening to the clew just looks cooler, too!

*Yes indeed. It does make loud sound like a rifle shot!!