Wanted: Ericson E32, E34, E35 near Lake Erie & Lake Ontario

[kapnkd]

Strictly FWIW, I would put Pearson's much lower down on your list, at least the ones from the 80's. When we were shopping we toured one (about 33') and got to the rubber gasket stanchion bases - wobbling back n forth with water oozing out, and walked away. It's a pretty sure way to allow water into deck coring, and no other production was using this that I know of. This was a very long way from the EY method of attachment of deck hardware in that era.

Water intrusion into the decks and balsa coring is perhaps one of the more serious and troublesome gremlins to deal with in buying an older boat.

It’s not always that easy to detect and can prove a costly but needed/critical repair when finally realized.

One of the members at our boat club had a moisture meter he would rent out to fellow members for a nominal fee (obviously offsetting his own costs). We since have bought our own. They can be found online in prices ranging from a little over $100. to several hundred dollars.

A good marine surveyor will certainly have and use one for any vessel you have him check - but - the use of one by you personally can help quickly determine whether or not to spend your money on a survey.

 

[Dave G.]

Strictly FWIW, I would put Pearson's much lower down on your list

Interesting as I looked at a few Pearsons and they all had deck moisture issues. I even had one broker tell me that "this is normal on these boats, you just need to inject some epoxy to repair it"(sure, ah no thanks). What I eventually found out is Pearson had a problem with their hull to deck joints which allowed water into the deck core. If you google "Pearson hull to deck joint" you'll get a lot of info.

 

[Christian Williams]

I was admiring yesterday the 2011 J-111 a dockmate just bought. Quite a sexy 36-foot racer/cruiser.

Lots of activity on deck because every deck fitting was being removed and recaulked--after 10 years.

"They all leak," said the new owner, shaking his head.

 

[sf1332]

I was admiring yesterday the 2011 J-111 a dockmate just bought. Quite a sexy 36-foot racer/cruiser.

Lots of activity on deck because every deck fitting was being removed and recaulked--after 10 years.

"They all leak," said the new owner, shaking his head.

The most expensive boat I've seen this year is a J-32 sitting on the hard...late 90's model. I've been told that J-boats command premium mainly because of better marketing not necessarily better quality, so wanted to check one out.

Her topsides, hull/keel and rudder were in beautiful condition. However, when I stepped on the deck, I immediately noticed hairline/spider gelcoat crazings and cracks literally all over the deck especially near the hardware. Eventual water intrusion or sun damage if not redone?

The broker told me this is typical of J boats of that vintage. He said some people don't mind it at all, and some do. Perhaps I am a little shallow when it comes to cosmetics of my boat, but I didn't spend much more time on the boat after that.

 

[sf1332]

Strictly FWIW, I would put Pearson's much lower down on your list, at least the ones from the 80's. When we were shopping we toured one (about 33') and got to the rubber gasket stanchion bases - wobbling back n forth with water oozing out, and walked away. It's a pretty sure way to allow water into deck coring, and no other common production builder was using this that I know of. This was a very long way from the EY method of attachment of deck hardware in that era.

Loren, I've been looking at Pearsons mainly because (1) they are relatively more available in my area and (2) they seem to have a good perf. "ratios" such as SA/D for boats with reasonable sail area I think I can handle alone.

Yes, learned a lot about stanchion gasket issues and other moisture on the deck issues on Pearsons (and to be honest, on other older boats to a varying degree).

Once I saw a Pearson on SL with a really attractive price and with all the nice photos and great inventory list, so I called the owner right away. After hearing that I will need to truck the boat to Erie, PA, this honest owner explained to me kindly that she's a wrong boat for me as the boat has serious moisture issues on cabin top, and it would take 20k+ to fix it, and the boat might not even survive the trip to Erie!

Currently, to share with everyone, my brand rankings are:

1. Ericson (PSE/Olson) (32-35' models only)
2. CS (34 only)
3. C&C (30-34 models only)
4. Pearson (30-34 models only)

I have decided to stop researching and seeing Tartan models of 80's vintage, and I cannot get myself to like Catalinas or Hunters after seeing a few. These 3 brands of boats are very common in my area (Lake Erie), fyi.

 

[John Gunnin]

Check out https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/ericson-35-mk-ii-for-sale.18935/.

 

[Mr. Scarlett]

All the West Coast boat haulers are bringing boats from East to West right now. There is nothing going the other way. It seems like you could get a better than normal shipping price as "haulback". Meaning the truck isn't traveling empty from West to East.

 

[sf1332]

Hello all,

I am currently in contract to buy a 1982 Ericson 33 #12. (E33RH). Overall, she's in great shape, but would like some advice. First, here's the link to the craiglist post:
https://cleveland.craigslist.org/boa/d/lorain-ericson/7352612417.html

1. The boat is strictly sold as is. The current owner (CO) went through a very unfortunate situation of losing his younger brother to cancer recently, and he seems to have strong emotional responses to being at the boat. He simply does not want to spend time there, thus even if the boat has been in the water this season, she's been hardly sailed/used. The CO and his late brother bought the boat together 3 years ago and has done a lot of work not to mention putting a lot of money in. Before then, the boat sat on the hard for 3 years. I believe she was involved in local yacht club racing prior to that.

2. The boat needs some work inside mostly cosmetic according to the CO (but not sure if any more "structural" work is needed). See photos below and let me know. These cosmetics work is need to finish the work done after water leak/damage from the Head port light per CO.

3. One of the keel bolts apparently "leaked", ie, some water was disappearing right near the bolt. Thus he unscrewed and sealed that keel bolt. Where would the water go if disappeared through some crack near the bolt? Empty void within TAFG? Deep sump in the hull? (see photos)

4. One important concern is that the mast is slightly bent to port. Pls see the photo attached. Taken from foredeck looking up. The mast also seems to have a little more pronounced bent aft from the mast head to where the forestay attaches (the top ⅛ of the mast as it's a ⅞ fractional rig, I believe). Is this something that a rigger can fix by adjusting shrouds? Since sat on the hard for 3 years, wondering if there's any permanent damage to the mast.
currentwork done in 2018
Thank you all!

 

[kapnkd]

All the West Coast boat haulers are bringing boats from East to West right now. There is nothing going the other way. It seems like you could get a better than normal shipping price as "haulback". Meaning the truck isn't traveling empty from West to East.

EXACTLY!!! It’s how we brought our ‘32 up to Michigan from Sarasota, FL back in ‘91.

Lots of boats being trucked by flatbed TO Florida and empty back Northbound. (The truck driver said he was teased all the way on his CB about being headed the wrong way.) Back then our cost was about half the normal rate!

 

[kapnkd]

Leaking ports/windows are an inevitable curse for all boaters in time. That being said, it is a fix that, although a pain, isn’t as bad as it seams to remedy. First try Capt Tolley’s Creeping Leak Cure. It’s a penetrating silicone sealant and doesn’t leave a gloppy mess like regular sealants do.



IF it’s more serious, then removing the port is in order. The rubber/vinyl seal between the aluminum port and glass is still available as well if it needs replacement. We used butyl rubber when rebedding or ports and have experienced zero leaks since. Others on this site can and will offer their solutions as well.

...As for your mast, hard to see if there’s a kink or stress mark in your mast from the photo. Chances are you can resolve that issue by properly “Tuning” your rig (???).

Get or borrow a shroud tension gauge to first insure ALL mainstays and lowers are set to the equal proper/recommended specs as in your manual. Then sight your mast again for any deviations. Hopefully your issues will then be resolved.

Good luck!! ...No doubt many other EYO members will soon be commenting as well! (You came to the right spot and most certainly WELCOME aboard!!!

 

[sf1332]

Leaking ports/windows are an inevitable curse for all boaters in time. That being said, it is a fix that, although a pain, isn’t as bad as it seams to remedy. First try Capt Tolley’s Creeping Leak Cure. It’s a penetrating silicone sealant and doesn’t leave a gloppy mess like regular sealants do.

View attachment 39715

IF it’s more serious, then removing the port is in order. The rubber/vinyl seal between the aluminum port and glass is still available as well if it needs replacement. We used butyl rubber when rebedding or ports and have experienced zero leaks since. Others on this site can and will offer their solutions as well.

...As for your mast, hard to see if there’s a kink or stress mark in your mast from the photo. Chances are you can resolve that issue by properly “Tuning” your rig (???).

Get or borrow a shroud tension gauge to first insure ALL mainstays and lowers are set to the equal proper/recommended specs as in your manual. Then sight your mast again for any deviations. Hopefully your issues will then be resolved.

Good luck!! ...No doubt many other EYO members will soon be commenting as well! (You came to the right spot and most certainly WELCOME aboard!!!

Thank you so much for your advice!

I cross-posted this on a new thread, fyi.