Galley Changes

[Gaviate]

Well as a general rule for me, NPT fittings are ALWAYS assembled with Harvey Seal, or some other approved thread seal paste for propane gas. Once the adapter fitting from NPT to flare is installed, you can do without thread seal for flare connections. If the NPT threads are such that no air (gas) tight connection can be achieved then time to replace, or re-cut.
Try assembly as is, then test for leaks with electronic gas sniffer, you may get lucky but failing that, me thinks the last resort is your best option.
If there is a machine shop near you, they may be able to cut and re-thread. Our local Home Depot routinely cuts and threads gas pipe (black iron) but your tube may be to small for such a machine.

 

[fool]

+1 to Gaviate.

What is NPT?

Learn about the characteristics, commonly used sizes, and leakage issues of NPT

www.hoseassemblytips.com

https://www.amazon.com/Harvey-017065-Line-PTFE-Thread/dp/B000FKBXCE

 

[Kenneth K]

What kind of material is the fitting with bad threads?

 

[toddster]

You can also get inexpensive pipe threading tools at Harbor Freight.

 

[bigd14]

What kind of material is the fitting with bad threads?

I think it is aluminum, which might make the pipe threading tools Toddster mentioned the way to go. With the Harvey Seal and testing. Thanks, all.

 

[Kenneth K]

I'd feel better about cutting threads in brass or aluminum than in iron.

Ace hardware usually sells a good variety of Irwin dies, including NPT sizes. I'd probably rather spring for a quality die and wrench in the size I needed rather than buy a whole set of cheap stuff I won't use.

Also, even though the existing threads are bad, I might leave the last one or two threads showing then saw off the outer threads. The old threads might help you get the die seated squarely, which might be the hardest part about cutting new threads by hand.

 

[toddster]

Yes aluminum is easy (and easy to mess up) but they cut black iron pipe just fine. I've done lots. Including the main propane line in the greenhouse.
Hmm... they don't even seem to have the set that I've got any more. I guess there isn't much non-farm call for larger sizes.

 

[bigd14]

This is turning into a typical boat project (3x longer, 3x more $$). The Force 10 inlet pipe is stainless steel NOT aluminum. Removing it requires dismantling the entire stove, so with great effort I was able to chase new threads with the pipe in situ. These were no were no better than the old ones, so it was back to square one. When the stove attacked me in retaliation for the abuse I capitulated and gave the whole thing up. I ripped the heat shield and stove brackets out and hauled them and the stove out of the boat, never to return.



There is quite a cavernous space where the stove used to be. Creating usable storage and a spot for the Origo 3000 is the next challenge. I will pull heavily from the idea shown in the video in this thread: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/origo-stove-may-be-back-in-production.19722/page-2#post-155269



One of the ideas I am experimenting with is a sliding countertop to cover the eventual space that will hold the Origo. Looks like the E34 has this and other models may as well. I am hoping that someone with this feature can post up some pictures or a description of the inner workings. Does it store vertical? Thanks in advance.

Ixion Redux Galley & Brightwork

This is a stark improvement to the Catalina 30 Galley. Can't wait to get cook'n!

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Christian Williams]

Pretty simple, even elegant.

The Formica-topped board nests firmly, thanks to its fiddle. It lifts up easily, to be slid (caused to slide?) behind the stove, held near vertical by a strategically placed guide dowel. No further attachment.

When the cover is on, the stove needs to be secured in its gimbals. Otherwise as the boat rolls the stove swings and tosses the top across the cabin.

....

 

[Mr. Scarlett]

A bit late but on a previous boat swapping the pressurized alcohol stove for an Origo let me put 4X220AH 6V batteries in the space below. This was a very heavy "classic" and trim wasn't affected at all. I wouldn't do it on my 35-2.

 

[bigd14]

Pretty simple, even elegant.

Thank you Christian. That is much simpler than I was envisioning. The dowel is the critical part I wouldn't have though of. Does the back end of the board rest on the hull? My sliding cover will probably not be long enough for that but stops should be easy to install.

6V batteries in the space below.

Good use of space. Do you find that the gimbals work well with the stove?

 

[Mr. Scarlett]

Good use of space. Do you find that the gimbals work well with the stove?

Yes, they did the job. Worth the money. Pot holders are a must. Being so light its a little "twitchy". I made a shelf below so it could rest on its own bottom when at anchor/alongside.

 

[bigd14]

Thanks for all the photos and ideas. I started the design and renovation of the galley area. I'm making this up as I go along, but the idea is to have something close to a factory look whilst improving the useful storage area.

Rough mockup of the new stove shelf and interior storage areas.


Templating for the cabinet front/interior storage areas and painting the hull


Storage areas cut out, painted and installed


More as it gets built. Last time I did this on my E27 in 2010 I had a full woodworking shop. Now I am reduced to a portable table saw and hand tools. They say it's not the tools that make a good craftsman, but I'm not sure about that. I'm already struggling and the truly detailed work is yet to come.

 

[Mark F]

"They say it's not the tools that make a good craftsman" Ha! I remember early in my construction career a contractor that I admired for his carpentry skills said when talking about tools to buy, "You can tell a good golfer by the number of irons he carries." ;-)

 

[bigd14]

It took me just over 3 years, but I finally finished updating the galley. The original Force 10 stove was non-operational due to the propane supply line threads being buggered and not repairable. The goal was to add storage space, make a spot for the Origo 3000, and make the entire thing look reasonably close to the factory finishes. The joinery isn’t the best, there are many species of wood, and it’s not as elegant as it could be but I’m pretty happy with it. Storage, which is in short supply on the 30+, is much improved.

Original space with Force 10 removed


Interior shelves


Templating


Getting closer


Finally!

 

[bsangs]

It took me just over 3 years, but I finally finished updating the galley. The original Force 10 stove was non-operational due to the propane supply line threads being buggered and not repairable. The goal was to add storage space, make a spot for the Origo 3000, and make the entire thing look reasonably close to the factory finishes. The joinery isn’t the best, there are many species of wood, and it’s not as elegant as it could be but I’m pretty happy with it. Storage, which is in short supply on the 30+, is much improved.

Original space with Force 10 removed
View attachment 49803

Interior shelves
View attachment 49804

Templating
View attachment 49805

Getting closer
View attachment 49806

Finally!
View attachment 49807

View attachment 49808

View attachment 49809

That is one helluva job. Well done.

 

[Loren Beach]

Nice work! I really appreciate your time spent in templating and making mockups and patterns. (I am presently in the final stage of installing new hull ceilings in the aft cabin, and 80% of the project time goes toward this prep work !)

 

[Kenneth K]

Nice!

 

[southofvictor]

Nice work! It looks great. That cabinet space looks handy.

 

[Christian Williams]

Those templates are grand. I never knew about them until the carpenters of Tally Ho started showing how they make crazy complicated cabinets. It really solves the measurement problem.