• Untitled Document

    Join us on November 22nd, 7pm EDT

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    Adventures & Follies

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the people you've met online!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    November Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Ericson 41 Florida - Norway

sveinutne

Member III
I am really exited about this acid and what it can do, unfortunately I was incapacitated from working on the boat today, but soon I hope to find out what the acid can do and where I can use it. I have eight old winces that I thought I would have to spend a lot of time on, but maybe this acid will help there too. Also on the windows frames you see in a the pictures in post #275, and a lot of other places too.
 

sveinutne

Member III
I am quite happy with the HCl 10% on bronze and chrome, but I know it is hard on the metal, and it is important to wash of very good after only some minutes to stop the process from doing too much improvements or eating up the goodies. But after some time with new exposure to air, the copper rust will come back. I wonder what will be a good way to stop that from happening. I am thinking of using varnish or a layer of epoxy on the windows frames and some of the other places, but I do not know if that is a good idea, or if I should use something much better. Shining bronze and new teak is a delight for the eye, but very hard to keep nice, so I have to find ways to preserve it and cut down on the maintenance.
 
Last edited:

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Protecting the shine

I am quite happy with the HCl 10% on bronze and chrome, but I know it is hard on the metal, and it is important to wash of very good after only some minutes to stop the process from doing too much improvements or eating up the goodies. But after some time with new exposure to air, the copper rust will come back. I wonder what will be a good way to stop that from happening. I am thinking of using varnish or a layer of epoxy on the windows frames and some of the other places, but I do not know if that is a good idea, or if I should use something much better. Shining bronze and new teak is a delight for the eye, but very hard to keep nice, so I have to find ways to preserve it and cut down on the maintenance.

I do not know what the best protective clear layer is for outdoor bronze, but for all kinds of bronze kept inside, they lacquer it.

LB
 

sveinutne

Member III
I had two round windows in the front wall that I did not like. They were small and not so nice, so I am planning to replace them with one oval window. The problem is that I could not find any windows with the right size that was opening outwards, so I had to go for one BOMAR Port light stainless steel 572x203mm. But I did not want to lose the class A rating on the boat, so I got a workshop to put in extra 12 mm Plexiglas that I could mount when going out in rough sea. Just to be on the safe side, I will reinforce the front wall with two extra layer s of fiberglass before installing the window. Making the extra Plexiglas was not so easy. The shop had it almost done when it cracked. I took both paces with me. Maybe I can use one as emergency spare.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6906-s.JPG
    IMG_6906-s.JPG
    35 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_6908-s.JPG
    IMG_6908-s.JPG
    36.4 KB · Views: 40
  • IMG_6909-s.JPG
    IMG_6909-s.JPG
    26.7 KB · Views: 39

sveinutne

Member III
Now I finely have the bolts I need, so I can put the rudder in place with new gasket. The bronze is looking good after some HCl acid bathe and some engine wash and some mechanical rubbing.
Put some Greece on the rudder rod at the lover part that will need some lubrication. Put the gasket in first and then slip the ring over the rudder pole. This was quite easy compare to what I tried last year, when I tried to put the gasket in with the ring already in place. When the ring was fasten with the four bolts but not too tight, the rudder was pushed up 15 more cm and greased up before pushed all the way up. I wonder how tight the wires should be tightened.
 

Attachments

  • April 2011 082-s.JPG
    April 2011 082-s.JPG
    57.9 KB · Views: 33
  • April 2011 078-s.JPG
    April 2011 078-s.JPG
    51.2 KB · Views: 36
  • April 2011 084-s.JPG
    April 2011 084-s.JPG
    39 KB · Views: 34
  • April 2011 086-s.JPG
    April 2011 086-s.JPG
    35.5 KB · Views: 38
  • April 2011 088-s.JPG
    April 2011 088-s.JPG
    44.8 KB · Views: 31
Last edited:

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
I think you should have just kept the two round ports and added a little paint...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6906-s.JPG
    IMG_6906-s.JPG
    130.2 KB · Views: 40

sveinutne

Member III
Hi Sven,
I need to get the boat CE approved before I can use it. That was one of the reason I had to get a new engine. During this CE inspection and classification, the boat will be given A, B or C depending on what it can do. A is the highest and is needed for open sea at high waves and wind. B is for less than 4 meters of waves and C is only sailing in protected areas like fjords and close to land. I do not remember this so take it as an approximation. Also I could not put in gas cocker, but had to buy an alcohol burner. For having gas in the boat, the gas tank needs to be kept in an exterior cabin with special ventilation. I did not know there were so many rules for boats, but there is. Also the windows need to hold a curtain pressure, and especially in the front. All this will be inspected, and I have to pay about 4000 euro for this inspection, so I guess he will spend some time doing the inspection.
When I look at pictures of your boat, it looks like brand new, I do not think I can get even close to that, but I am starting to feel some bonding to it already.
 

sveinutne

Member III
There has been an argument on what looks best, but I am in no doubt that shining bronze look best. How I can keep it like this without spending all my time polishing is another question, but the way it looked was not an option.
I have also bought new ceiling, and I planned to start in the front cabin because the ceiling there was worst, the rest can stay like it is till next season. From the picture you can see that also the sides around the windows need some upgrade, but I am not sure what to do. In the ceiling it is easy to change the plates, but on the sides around the windows, I do not like the idea of taking out the windows, but then it will be very difficult to change the sides. Any idea how it can be done with a minimum of work?
I am considering just giveing the sides just a layer of paint.
 

Attachments

  • April 2011-vindu 001-s.JPG
    April 2011-vindu 001-s.JPG
    40.6 KB · Views: 38
  • April 2011-vindu 002-s.JPG
    April 2011-vindu 002-s.JPG
    33.6 KB · Views: 53
Last edited:

Emerald

Moderator
There has been an argument on what looks best, but I am in no doubt that shining bronze look best. How I can keep it like this without spending all my time polishing is another question,.

I can't say that this will make it faster, but it will make it less painful. It is called Guinness and comes in nifty cans and bottles :egrin:
 

sveinutne

Member III
Guinness might be the answer to some, personally I prefer Norrlands GULD. It is a Swedish bear. For lasting shine I have decided to try lacquer on the windows and frame. It will be almost indoor, because I have decided to glue 6 mm thick Plexiglas on the outside. It means I will not be able to open the side windows, but there is no need for that in Norway. If I want more air, I will open the hatches, and the new front window. The side windows were maybe fine in California, where you have almost no rain, but in Norway with almost no days without rain, the windows just collect the rainwater. Maybe I will live the head window, so it will be possible to ventilate if needed.
 

sveinutne

Member III
I tried to move the motor from the garage till the boat today. The motor was almost in the boat, but one of the electric winches would not hold, so I had to let it go back down again. Now I will call for a truck with lift to place the motor in the boat.
 

Attachments

  • April 2011-motor 005-s.JPG
    April 2011-motor 005-s.JPG
    69.5 KB · Views: 43
  • April 2011-motor 006-s.JPG
    April 2011-motor 006-s.JPG
    52.1 KB · Views: 47

sveinutne

Member III
It will take some days before I get a truck to lift in the motor, so I will cut the plates for the celing in the front cabin today.
 

Attachments

  • April 2011-tak-s.JPG
    April 2011-tak-s.JPG
    39.7 KB · Views: 44

sveinutne

Member III
The motor is in the boat, but I had to pay more than $200 for 15 minutes of lifting, but it was worth it. Now I need to fine adjust the positioning of the motor, but that I will do myself.
 

Attachments

  • April 2011-motor 014-s.JPG
    April 2011-motor 014-s.JPG
    55.9 KB · Views: 44
  • April 2011-motor 016-s.JPG
    April 2011-motor 016-s.JPG
    58.9 KB · Views: 42
  • April 2011-motor 019-s.JPG
    April 2011-motor 019-s.JPG
    63.4 KB · Views: 44
  • April 2011-motor 023-s.JPG
    April 2011-motor 023-s.JPG
    51.6 KB · Views: 43
  • April 2011-motor 030-s.JPG
    April 2011-motor 030-s.JPG
    60.1 KB · Views: 44

sveinutne

Member III
Thanks, to get the motor in feels like a milestone. Now the next will be to get it in the right position and bolt it tight to the boat and start the engine inside the boat and see how the noise and exhaust system is working.
 
Top