• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Cheap LED replacement for existing cabin fixtures

SurabyaKid

Member III
I read the posts here and looked at fixture replacement as well as bulb replacement & decided to go a different route.

The 9 LED strip I used is $13, guarenteed for life and draws .07 amp. It has the apparent luminosity of the two 10 watt incandecent bulbs it replaces (.833 amps *2) although it is blue white in color which I don't mind.

The nice thing about this modification is that the fixtures use spade type connectors, so I can always revert back to the incandecents if need be.

I looked at incandecent bulb prices at West Marine (not necessarily a good price comparison) and they had the bulbs at $5 each...so for $3 more I end up with a guarenteed permanent solution.

I may end up adding a second set of strips to increase (and even out) the luminosity from the edge mounting I have done so far. even so this should mean total draw is .98 (7 fixtures X .07 amps X 2) versus 11.6 (7 fixtures X .833 amps X 2)

Pat
 

Attachments

  • Original Fixture.jpg
    Original Fixture.jpg
    106.2 KB · Views: 77
  • With LED.jpg
    With LED.jpg
    96.9 KB · Views: 84

SurabyaKid

Member III
Thanks Tim,

Will do. Is the interference just VHF? I was listening to the FM while installing and did not notice anything.

Pat
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
I have tried single LED's "straight up" and they did not last long for me. My alternator goes into "bulk" charge mode, the voltage ramps up and the LED's fry..... Thats why I pay the money for Sensibulbs. They have built in voltage regulators. If you use a stock alternator/regulator you may not have any problems. RT
 

chaco

Member III
Fry Point

Whats the Fry Point ? I am Charging at 14.4 Volts on Bulk Charge. Thanks for the WARNING on the LED Voltage thing !
 

SurabyaKid

Member III
After reading Rob's post on voltages this morning, I checked with the supplier of the LED's I used and they said good to 14volts. I am using a standard alternator on my M12, so I think I will be OK.

I also asked if they had had problems with radio interference and they indicated no. None the less I checked for interference this afternoon, while on the boat, by turning on all seven fixtures and listening on VHF, FM, AM and GMRS/FRS. I did not detect any audible interference.

Pat
 
Last edited:

EGregerson

Member III
alt voltage

from what I've read, boat alternators put out 2 volts more than a regular automotive alternator, in order to recharge the battery sooner (since you only motor out a short time; then set sail!); that would put it at 15-16 volts; i guess that would mean you would not want the lights on while the motor is running.
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
I've seen the Balmar hit 15.9volts at one of the stages. Its not readily visible so I have no idea if it goes higher. I trust its doing what its supposed to do as the batteries are charged, they use almost no water and I have plenty of juice.

I replaced some of the DC breaker lights on the panel with nice RadioShack LED's. They expired quite quickly at the higher voltage. I read, somewhere that LED's don't like over or undervoltage conditions. Thats why the better LED conversions have some sort of voltage regulation circuitry. I would agree that at 14.4 you should have no issues.

RT
 

agraziano23

Member II
Hi guys, my name is Tony i'm cruising this board to learn about a prospective E27 I'm seriously considering for purchase. I'm an ex Electronics technician and would like to state that LEDs should be installed with a resistor in series to prevent them prom frying. the trick come in selecting a resistor that will keep the LEDs bright enough without blowing, possibly one in the 2K ohm range.
 

SurabyaKid

Member III
The company I bought the LED's from indicated they use one resistor (unknown Ohms) for every three LED's in their LED strips.

Whats the easiest way of determining the maximum alternator voltage? I'm presuming that since the battery charger normally keeps the batteries charged to capacity from shore power, that I will not reach alternator full voltage unless I discharge the batteries?

Pat
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Why, pray tell, would you have batteries if you are not going to discharge them? :rolleyes:

Your presuming is wrong - the alternator regulator will have the voltage go to the maximum set voltage which should be in the neighborhood of 14 1/2 volts, depending on battery type. It should never go higher unless you are equalizing flooded cell batteries. Nothing should be energized when you equalize.
 

SurabyaKid

Member III
Tom,

I'm on a large inland lake where I overnight two to three days or daysail & then come back to the dock & plug in.

I switched to the LED's to reduce my evening lighting load so as to have the house battery power for other uses....I have a two battery system with one pretty much dedicated for engine start up and the other for house use.

It is actually rare that the Alternator is my primary source of battery charging as I generally only run the diesel five to ten minutes to get out to the main channel of the lake (either from marina or cove anchorage) & then begin sailing. The hourmeter on my diesel which was installed in 1988 by the original owner shows 663 engine hours which pretty much demonstrates the kind of usage the boat has seen. I (and fellow diesel sailboat owners on the lake) find that the light usage presents its own challenges to keep the diesel engine and fuel in good shape.

Based on the feedback I have gotten so far (yours and others), I seem to have little danger of blowing up the LED's due to over voltage from the alternator as most of the time, the diesel is run during daylight hours and the interior lights are off.

Pat
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Pat - Assuming the LEDs you bought are designed for mobile applications they are designed for full charger voltage and will not be hurt by the alternator. One of their advantages is long life.

The better brands have a current regulator in the lamp, not for longer life, but for constant light output. They are usually rated for 10 - 30 volts.

Virtually all of the voltage change on the cheaper series resistance units is taken up by the series resistor, not the LED, but this results in changes in light output.
 
Top