E35-3 Replacing bilge hose

[cbeveridge]

Hi - this is my first post asking for assistance. My (original I believe) automatic bilge hose (Lawrence 3/4 ID) is severely rotten where is exits under the engine. I am trying to remove the old one and instal a new one. It's a tricky job - without much force the aft end of the hose disintegrated. The new Trident hose is smaller than the original but I have concerns about being able to feed it through (assuming I can remove the old one). Does anyone have any experience with how to replace the hose without lifting the floorboards?

The hose disappears from new the chart table (starboard side) and then magically reappears by the transmission. I have an idea on the routing but am not certain. Any ideas?

Lastly, as I mentioned I am trying to avoid lifting the floorboards in the process. If anyone has alternative routing ideas these would also be welcome.

Thank you in advance.

PS. Pic of rotten hose attached for your entertainment! Its nasty!

 

[Christian Williams]

Wire-reinforced bilge pump hose. Unusual, I think. Looks more like a wet exhaust hose.

The general plan for bilge pump hoses is to attach the new hose to the old and pull/push it through, expecting issues. If it were me I'd carefully wire-sew the connection so it could withstand the jerking and yanking in store. Minimal tape, trying to keep it flexible. Maybe a lubricant on the hose exterior (Dawn soap) .

On my model the bilge hoses go through furniture and make difficult hidden turns. Patience and a helper.

I don't suppose your floorboards come up easily? Lifting mine would be a major project and probably require a new sole.

See also: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/bilge-wars-the-jammed-hose-menace.19127/

 

[cbeveridge]

Christian - thanks for the prompt reply. Love your videos by the way. I appreciate the advice.

Yes, floor boards don't come up easily. It would be a major project and one I want to avoid. If I can't get it through the same path, I may be able to route it into the starboard locker and by the galley to the pump under the galley sink.

Correction to the earlier post - hose disappears from the port side (not starboard) by the chart table.

All the best.

 

[dcoyle]

I replaced the original manual bilge pump hose on my E33 a few years ago. The hose entered conduit in engine compartment and exited conduit under cabin sole. Assumed the conduit was continuous, but sadly discovered it was not. The engine compartment conduit ended at a cross beam under cabin sole, the next conduit was offset to starboard a few inches. Luckily I was able to fish a messenger line through both conduits. Getting the hose through was really rough. We ended up slitting the hose in half lengthwise for about 3 feet to help feed through offset, we also used heat gun to heat up and soften hose. With one guy pushing from engine room and another pulling in bilge we were successful. Gave up lots of skin and blood and got plenty of bruises. Another supposedly easy job!

 

[shard7]

Having fished electrical wire through house walls and conduit runs for many years, I can attest to the value of a good electrician's fishtape. The wire is just the right balance of stiff but springy.

For a hose, feed it all the way through the old hose first (from the side opposite of where you'll pull the old hose out). Then pull the hose out and the fishtape is left in its place. Attach new hose to fishtape, pull it through.

I've also found it helpful to a) securely attach the fishtape to whatever you're pulling, and b) make the end as smooth and streamlined as you can (shape the end, cover with tape, etc.) to prevent it from snagging. Sometimes a combination of pushing and pulling simultaneously is necessary.

I'm also a big fan of low cost endoscopes ($30 on Amazon), being able to see inside things you can't access is a game changer. I have one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-NIDAGE-Inspection-Semi-Rigid-Inspecting/dp/B0791DG4FK/

Good luck!

 

[Christian Williams]

For a hose, feed it all the way through the old hose first (from the side opposite of where you'll pull the old hose out). Then pull the hose out and the fishtape is left in its place. Attach new hose to fishtape, pull it through.

Now there's a new technique new to me. And yeah, a real fish tape beats all and it's the most-borrowed tool on my boat.

 

[goldenstate]

All of the under-TAFG-grid hoses in my '90 seem to be inaccessibly zip-tied to the underside of the grid itself.

This necessitates not only pulling the floorboards, but cutting access points in the grid itself.

See: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/diagnosing-a-freshwater-pump-issue.19789/#post-155367

Definitely a manufacturer's choice that has made future (now present) repairs much more difficult, though I am quite sure that none of the hoses got pinched when the grid was flipped into the hull for glassing. Pulling a replacement hose through is simply not an option.

 

[cbeveridge]

Thank you for all the replies. I have used my fish tape but with no success so far. Hoses seem well and truly locked in place. I am looking at alternative routing of the hose and running a smaller diameter hose through the old one (not ideal but better than the current set up!). Thanks again.

 

[Christian Williams]

1990 boats. I wonder if those zip ties are present on mid-80s Ericsons.

 

[windblown]

1990 boats. I wonder if those zip ties are present on mid-80s Ericsons.

I can attest to zip ties on hoses in the TAFG in our 1985 32-3.

 

[peaman]

Speaking of fish tapes:
I did a complete overhaul of electronics over the Winter, and early on, I needed to buy a good fish tape. I was familiar with the traditional steel ones, but luckily, before I bought, I came across one which is not only non-conductive and non-corroding, but it is also glow-in-the-dark! If you run it through a conduit that unknowably comes up in a live electrical panel, it won't electrocute you. And if it comes out in a dark bilge or the dark part of the engine compartment, the glow-in-dark feature can be really appreciated. If you are in the market for a new fish tape, it's worth looking out for a fiberglass glow-in-the-dark variety.