Installing Midship cleats on Ericsson 34- Advice?

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ALEXIS FERNANDEZ

Ericson 34-2 Owner | Refit in Progress
Hi everyone,

I’m considering installing proper midship cleats on my Ericson (Paloma) primarily for spring lines, docking, and dinghy tie-offs.

Before I start drilling holes in the deck, I wanted to ask if anyone here has installed midship cleats on an Ericson 34 (or similar Ericson model).

A few things I’d love advice on:

- Best location for the cleats
- Recommended cleat size/style
- Access underneath the side decks for backing plates
- Any hidden issues to watch out for (wiring, core, liners, etc.)
- Whether you had to remove interior trim/headliner panels
- Photos of your installation if you have them

I understand the top-side install is fairly straightforward, but I’ve never done the backing plate side of this kind of project before, so I’d really appreciate any guidance, lessons learned, or “do’s and don’ts.”

Thanks very much!
 
A

ALEXIS FERNANDEZ

Ericson 34-2 Owner | Refit in Progress
Thanks Dave, that’s actually a really interesting idea and something absolutely to consider.

Avoiding major deck drilling and backing plate access would definitely simplify things quite a bit.

For those familiar with these Schaefer-style rail cleats on Ericsons:

- Are they considered strong enough for full spring-line docking loads?
- Any concerns using them regularly for docking in current/wind?
- Does anyone have photos of them installed on an Ericson 34 or similar model?
- Any concerns about loading the toerail itself?

I mainly want something practical for:
- spring lines
- short-handed docking
- dinghy tie-offs
- temporary dock lines

Appreciate the guidance very much.
 
gabriel

gabriel

Live free or die hard
it’s kinda hard to put a regulat mid cleat on these boats without creating either an eyesore or a toesore due to the molded toe rail. the cleat Dave suggest mounts to T track, not a toe rail. That wouldn’t be a bad solution actually.

I wouldn’t tie my dinghy to the center of my boat as it will bump against the hull all night!
 
Prairie Schooner

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
Alexis, there is some further discussion of these in this thread, along with some other alternatives.
- https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/thread...1-1-4-mid-rail-cleat-70-75.22267/#post-182589

We recently got another Schaefer cleat for the port side but the slot seems to be just a tad shallower. It's hitting any screw head that is off kilter enough to be slightly proud, binds and gets stuck. I tried filing a screw head but there are too many. If I had access to a Bridgeport, I'd mill the cleat inside. Absent that, I'm grinding it by hand. The Schaefer on starboard we got with the boat (so it's probably over 10 years old) and it is fine. ?? Change in vendor? - Nothin's easy.
cleat T-track 01 sm.jpeg
 
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peaman

peaman

Contributing Partner
ALEXIS FERNANDEZ said:
- Are they considered strong enough for full spring-line docking loads?
- Any concerns using them regularly for docking in current/wind?
- Does anyone have photos of them installed on an Ericson 34 or similar model?
- Any concerns about loading the toerail itself?

I mainly want something practical for:
- spring lines
- short-handed docking
- dinghy tie-offs
- temporary dock lines
Click to expand...
I have one of these on each side of my boat and I wouldn't hesitate to use them for any of the duties you mentioned. They are not toy cleats, they are of excellent size and shape for the purpose, and they look great as well.
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
FWIW, the genoa track will take hundreds(+) of pounds of force, and unlike the upward vector of a sheet load, the dock line load is normally in shear. Moving the sliding cleat on-n-off (if it's in the way for sailing) will take an extra minute.
Note B: if you are tying up for a day or three at a visitor dock, any stanchion base or shroud base will withstand oodles of shear loading without a whimper. Our '88 boat came with large factory ss backing plates under every stanchion base.
Chafe gear would be required for such a use, of course.
 
E

EricD.

Junior Member
In the vein of being a cheap ass, but would like a nice looking, strong midship cleat, what about drilling and tapping threads in the t track to mount a standard cleat?
 
A

ALEXIS FERNANDEZ

Ericson 34-2 Owner | Refit in Progress
I also have that toe rail will absolutely consider it. I think it would be the answer to what I’m trying to achieve. Being on a Maureen and having a tender or a dinghy, it’s easy to use a midship cleat when I’m alone unloading materials onto the deck makes it much easier now I’ve been tying off to the aft winch and the front cleat is way up near the bow. So this can help me quickly tie up. Thanks
 

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vanilladuck

vanilladuck

E32-3 / San Francisco
Blogs Author
ALEXIS FERNANDEZ said:
- Are they considered strong enough for full spring-line docking loads?
- Any concerns using them regularly for docking in current/wind?
- Does anyone have photos of them installed on an Ericson 34 or similar model?
- Any concerns about loading the toerail itself?
Click to expand...
In case you need more insight... Like @peaman, I have one of the shiny Schaefers on each side of my E32-3 on the T-track which is on mounted to the molded toe rail. One of my favorite tricks here in SF Bay is when I need to dock with 20kts+ from abeam blowing off the dock. I put a breast line on that midship Schaefer and pin the boat to the dock as soon as I step off. That one cleat holds the entire boat while I sort bow, stern and spring lines ;)
 
Kenneth K

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
EricD. said:
In the vein of being a cheap ass, but would like a nice looking, strong midship cleat, what about drilling and tapping threads in the t track to mount a standard cleat?
Click to expand...
Kind of defeats the purpose of the track--being able to slide the jib cars fore-and-aft. Also to tap it, you'd have to go deep enough to penetrate the fiberglass below, which would then be a source for leaks.

These will work for docking as well:
Screenshot_20260520-103551.eBay.png
 
bsangs

bsangs

E35-3 - New Jersey
ALEXIS FERNANDEZ said:
Thanks Dave, that’s actually a really interesting idea and something absolutely to consider.

Avoiding major deck drilling and backing plate access would definitely simplify things quite a bit.

For those familiar with these Schaefer-style rail cleats on Ericsons:

- Are they considered strong enough for full spring-line docking loads?
- Any concerns using them regularly for docking in current/wind?
- Does anyone have photos of them installed on an Ericson 34 or similar model?
- Any concerns about loading the toerail itself?

I mainly want something practical for:
- spring lines
- short-handed docking
- dinghy tie-offs
- temporary dock lines

Appreciate the guidance very much.
Click to expand...
We've been using rail cleats for our spring lines - and for a breast line when possible - on both sides. Have had it rigged that way in the water during Nor'easters, and winter storms. No issues whatsoever. (Also makes a great tie down spot for a genoa sheet if you want to adjust the car on the fly.)
 
bgary

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
One more up-vote for rail cleats.

I've got one on each side. Super useful, and as @vanilladuck says above, allows me to jump onto a dock with a single line and pin the boat in place while securing the rest of the docklines. Have never had any reason to be concerned about the strength - the cleats are well made, and that molded mini-bulwark around the deck edge is probably the strongest part of the deck.

$.02
 
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