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Top motoring speed with E-27 and outboard?

JPS27

Member III
It might be worth $30K investment if you plan to sail this 1971 E27 around the world. Or even if you plan to keep it ten years, or forever. But if you plan to just sail locally and improve skills and move up in size or condition eventually, minimal dollars makes more sense.

Figure the most you could possibly sell the boat for and be guided by that. It's probably what you paid for it, no matter what upgrades you accomplish.

I couldn't agree more. I go back and forth with moving up in size or staying with my '77 27. For now I'm staying put with the 27. Each year I "invest" in something that makes the boat more reliable and safer. (note: it was a mess when I bought it some years ago). This year it's new standing rigging. I have heard of 27 rigging failures, and I'd like to focus on expanding my cruising experience. So, I decided to make the chainplate modification along with the new rigging. On my 27 there is evidence of plenty of water intrusion at the chainplates over the years, thus my decision. I also think it's a personality trait. It simply makes me more comfortable. I made my chainplates and am waiting for the rigger to help. Incidentally, he did the same job on another 27 that had lost a chainplate.
 

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Natcho

Junior Member
I couldn't agree more. I go back and forth with moving up in size or staying with my '77 27. For now I'm staying put with the 27. Each year I "invest" in something that makes the boat more reliable and safer. (note: it was a mess when I bought it some years ago). This year it's new standing rigging. I have heard of 27 rigging failures, and I'd like to focus on expanding my cruising experience. So, I decided to make the chainplate modification along with the new rigging. On my 27 there is evidence of plenty of water intrusion at the chainplates over the years, thus my decision. I also think it's a personality trait. It simply makes me more comfortable. I made my chainplates and am waiting for the rigger to help. Incidentally, he did the same job on another 27 that had lost a chainplate.
That well sums up my intent: make the boat reliable and safe, and otherwise just enjoy the sailing. The tricky part just seems to be different interpretations of what is deemed "safe". I'll be taking a closer look at the chainplates tomorrow and hopefully things look okay enough that I can skip down the punch list (like repairing the running lights or replacing the DIY residential AC wiring).
 

Guzzisailor

Member II
I suggest just sail this boat. If there's going to be a next one, save the money for that.

It might be worth $30K investment if you plan to sail this 1971 E27 around the world. Or even if you plan to keep it ten years, or forever. But if you plan to just sail locally and improve skills and move up in size or condition eventually, minimal dollars makes more sense.

Figure the most you could possibly sell the boat for and be guided by that. It's probably what you paid for it, no matter what upgrades you accomplish.
Christian is correct. I have a lot of fun with my E27 but I've spent way too much on for it not being my forever boat. I'll sail it for another couple of years and then move up in size.
 

Gaviate

Member III
It might be worth $30K investment if you plan to sail this 1971 E27 around the world. Or even if you plan to keep it ten years, or forever. But if you plan to just sail locally and improve skills and move up in size or condition eventually, minimal dollars makes more sense.
Agree 100%....This is the path that I am on...tho I didn't know it when first purchased the boat.
I would add that doing as much yourself as able, is hands down the best education tho, not always the least expensive! This is one of the reasons I am thankful for this forum. The shared wisdom here helps to lower the cost of my education by avoiding costly mistakes.
 

Natcho

Junior Member
Closing the loop on this thread in case anyone finds something worthwhile down the road.

We hauled out and cleaned/repainted the bottom of the boat and, as folks suggested here, it’s a dramatic change in how the boat handles under motor: faster on the glide, more responsive turns, and (unexpectedly) a change in fore/aft balance. I’ve no clue how long it had been since the bottom was last cleaned, but the marine growth was several inches thick at least.

On chainplates, I did excise the deck material around all chainplates and visually inspected above, between, and below. I also got a second opinion from an actual boat inspector (and former shipwright). Nothing egregiously wrong by visual appearance, so I went ahead and repaired the deck and just reinstalled the standing rigging a couple weeks ago. Time will tell, but I suspect it’ll hold up just fine for our coastal sailing.

Thanks again to all who shared their advice.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A high percentage of gear failure on sailboats is absolutely obvious the day before it predictably happens. Shackles open, pins worked out, gooseneck misaligned, stays frayed, screws loose, tracks bent, steering loose, stays that dangle free on the leeward mast just before a tack.

All it takes to prevent such unnecessary disasters is to look at the boat, and to know where to look.

The forum is good at reminding us to look, and at what.
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
All it takes to prevent such unnecessary disasters is to look at the boat,
Excellent advice- I make a point every month or two to methodically put eyes on every single rigging pin and cotter pin that I can, including the masthead with binoculars. And every now and again I find something I don't like, for example a split ring that is working itself off. Entropy happens quickly on a sailboat...

On chainplates, I did excise the deck material around all chainplates and visually inspected above, between, and below.
Hey Natcho, great boat! Was there evidence of leaking around where the chainplates pass through the deck, or any wet core when you excavated? Failure points are often at the angle point between the chainplate and deck strap where it rests against the hull and trap water. If the deck was sound and not much evidence of water ingress they are probably fine. I probably (definitely?) went overboard with the chainplate issue but there was so much water damage surrounding them that it made me paranoid.

 

Natcho

Junior Member
Excellent advice- I make a point every month or two to methodically put eyes on every single rigging pin and cotter pin that I can, including the masthead with binoculars. And every now and again I find something I don't like, for example a split ring that is working itself off. Entropy happens quickly on a sailboat...


Hey Natcho, great boat! Was there evidence of leaking around where the chainplates pass through the deck, or any wet core when you excavated? Failure points are often at the angle point between the chainplate and deck strap where it rests against the hull and trap water. If the deck was sound and not much evidence of water ingress they are probably fine. I probably (definitely?) went overboard with the chainplate issue but there was so much water damage surrounding them that it made me paranoid.

Oh there was definitely moisture in the core around the chainplates (and many/most of the other deck penetrations). I used a rotary tool to cut the fiberglass and I recall well the port aft lower shroud spraying water all over me as I cut through the fiberglass into the core (that was the worst offender). But, there was pretty minimal evidence of corrosion. I did my best to expose the chainplates in the cabin too, and they looked decent there as well. I do realize that the more likely point of failure is at the welds, but the condition of the rest of the chainplates suggested things were okay enough for us.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Stays on leeward side can disconnect since not under pressure. At least one of our members noticed stay hanging free — and wisely decided not to tack.
 

steven

Sustaining Member
Further to Christians point, I had a leeward stay (aft lower if I recall) disconnect on SFBay in an E25.
Fortunately noticed, jury rigged a line to take the pressure off and babied her in.
30+kts over the deck. Had we not noticed, we would probably have lost the rig if tacking or bearing off.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I was in the eight grade, and there were three of us hiking out on a Penguin in 18 knots off Staten Island. Figure 500 pounds of lunkheads trying to keep an 11'6" dinghy flat to windward.

I had paid zero attention to the rusting galvanized stays and their irritating meathooks. Then, pop! We all went in backwards, head first, instantly, and bobbed up with no idea what happened until we saw the mast lying horizontal in the water.

They thought it was funny, but I had to repair the boat, and subsequently paid 100 percent attention to such things. :)
 
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