If you do have the old ones, perhaps new ones can be machined, or even scanned and built on a 3 D printer?
Yacht Specialties Pedestal Disassembly, with Photos [Master Thread]
- Thread starter Christian Williams
- Start date
Not sure what sizes you need, but you might want to check Mcmaster.
https://www.mcmaster.com/bearings/easy-install-dry-running-flanged-sleeve-bearings/
https://www.mcmaster.com/bearings/easy-install-dry-running-flanged-sleeve-bearings/
David Grimm
E38-200
That looks like it to me! Thank you!
Thanks for putting this together Christian!
Adding another data point:
Unfortunately, my pedestal was assembled with the plate connected to the grab bars above the engine control assembly. The plate is pretty much permanently connected to the grab rail, so to replace the control cables I will need to pull the rail with the control unit. I was almost able to get the bolts for the cable stop removed, but it's just a hair too long. Of course, I just rewired the pedestal to install new instruments, so I'll have to work around that.
Adding another data point:
Unfortunately, my pedestal was assembled with the plate connected to the grab bars above the engine control assembly. The plate is pretty much permanently connected to the grab rail, so to replace the control cables I will need to pull the rail with the control unit. I was almost able to get the bolts for the cable stop removed, but it's just a hair too long. Of course, I just rewired the pedestal to install new instruments, so I'll have to work around that.
I have removed and installed our ss guard several times. Tie a tag line (string) to each electrical cable when you drop it down under the cockpit. The tubing should be able to slide thru some plastic bushings that have insulated it from the aluminum plate.
This last big refurbishment saw new bushings put in, also.
This last big refurbishment saw new bushings put in, also.
It's possible the guard tubes fused to the aluminum, which happened to me. I had to cut the plate arms off and order new binnacle guard tubes and make a new connector plate.
But even if fused, maybe the whole thing will come off as one unit, if necessary.
But even if fused, maybe the whole thing will come off as one unit, if necessary.
Yup, that's what's going on with mine. I just had it apart a few months ago to install new instruments and rewire the pedestal. The feet are stuck to the tubes as well, so everything has to come off. Hopefully I put enough slack in the cables to slip the control unit out.
I have a list of priorities for working on the boat. Safety comes first, fixing items that are actively degrading the boat is second, and making it sail efficiently is third. Instruments and adding sail performance comes after all that is done....but B&G had a small sale and I caved. This is just the sail gods reminding me to stay the course.
I have a list of priorities for working on the boat. Safety comes first, fixing items that are actively degrading the boat is second, and making it sail efficiently is third. Instruments and adding sail performance comes after all that is done....but B&G had a small sale and I caved. This is just the sail gods reminding me to stay the course.
Martyn
Member II
Christian, if one is simply replacing the throttle and transmission cables, does the entire pedestal have to be unscrewed and removed, or can I remove the compass assembly on top, expose the cables and levers for disconnecting, and thread the cables down (or fish them up) and into the quarter berth?
Chschaus
"Voila"
Just the compass. [see corrections below]
You might be able to R&R the cable attachments with the top plate on, but on our YS pedestal removing it makes a difficult job easier.
David Grimm
E38-200
The compass and the shif/throttle holder has to come off as well. Good time to replace the plastic bushings.
Jaybee
Cocoa, FL 1984 30+
It seemed like the appropriate place to ask about cables. On my 30+ as some of you probably already know, the shift and throttle cables bend aft leaving the pedestal/cockpit floor, through the TAFG near the rudder exit the TAFG under the fuel tank, and then make their way to the engine. I currently have the fuel tank out and have gutted the electrical system for a complete rewire. Anyhow, I figured since I need to disable the pedestal for wiring issues I might as well put new cables in.
So... the actual question - I was contemplating not routing the new cables that way but instead bending them bow-ward and then affixing them to the engine bay roof. The throttle cable is easy enough, I would route it to the fuel pump in a normal manner. The transmission shifter linkage is orientated toward the floor so I would want to reorientate the linkage towards the roof with the cable making a half-loop and approaching from the engine side instead of the transmission side. Any reason why this couldn't be done this way respecting cable bending radius limits?
Why? because in a recent escapade (story upcoming) the shift cable had popped out of its retainer leaving us only with reverse gear. I'm capable of making a new bracket (have tools, a welder, etc) but having it abutted the floor in its current location is extremely difficult to reach let alone work on(haven't even attempted yet... but I'm assuming getting the correct repair parts will be extremely difficult as well...). So, the goal is a sturdier bracket with a better cable retainer that is easier to work on if necessary.
Thanks.
So... the actual question - I was contemplating not routing the new cables that way but instead bending them bow-ward and then affixing them to the engine bay roof. The throttle cable is easy enough, I would route it to the fuel pump in a normal manner. The transmission shifter linkage is orientated toward the floor so I would want to reorientate the linkage towards the roof with the cable making a half-loop and approaching from the engine side instead of the transmission side. Any reason why this couldn't be done this way respecting cable bending radius limits?
Why? because in a recent escapade (story upcoming) the shift cable had popped out of its retainer leaving us only with reverse gear. I'm capable of making a new bracket (have tools, a welder, etc) but having it abutted the floor in its current location is extremely difficult to reach let alone work on(haven't even attempted yet... but I'm assuming getting the correct repair parts will be extremely difficult as well...). So, the goal is a sturdier bracket with a better cable retainer that is easier to work on if necessary.
Thanks.
I think the proper radius is all that matters with these cables. That and securing them in place so they don't flop around.
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I was told the radius should be no less than 18" when I rerouted our cables on our 1984 E30+. I kept the fuel cable down the pedestal, along the bulkhead to the engine fuel connection but was able to shorten the cable by two feet. I kept the shift cable down the pedestal then near the rudder and under the fuel tank to the gear box, but I have a twin disc, not the original Hurth so it shifts on the left side. Both cables work well from those positions, with no issues.
Frank
Mr. Scarlett
Member III
Question for anyone who has explored the insides of their steering pedestals: could one space their wheel 1/2" aft without much difficulty?