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Christian, What you write about caulking makes a lot of sense but as you also point out,"Butyl works..." Back in 2019 I pulled the two fixed ports from the port side of my E32-3 because both were leaking around the frame. Both were set in an amazing (and scary) amount of caulking and required a lot few hours of work to pry the ports out and many more, back at my workshop, to get all the caulking off the frames. Because of that mess I decided to use butyl tape when re-installing the ports so that if they needed to be removed again the process would be easier and I just didn't like the idea of caulking. If the butyl tape didn't work then it would be much easier to get them off and then use caulking. That was five years ago and there has been no sign of leaking. So, as you say, butyl works.Butyl works, but caulk is better. Use lots of it, as Ericson did.
We found this too, though the actual cut-outs weren't as bad as some people have shown and there was a tight contact between FG outer shell and plywood inner fascia.Mr. Scarlett said:
. . .
One thing that blew me away was the absolutely horrible cutouts on both. Rough, wavy, bulging. The larger port has less than 1/8" of cabin sides to bond to on one of the upper corners. This does not take away from the build quality of mine or anyone else's Ericson, but wow.
Can you describe this in more detail? Did you use no pre-made gasket material at all, and only butyl? Isn't a gasket needed to keep the glass in the frame? Today, I pulled out two of my port lights and hope to pull the other two tomorrow, and I'd like to re-do the glass-to-frame installation before they get re-installed.Rather than trying to get the OEM black rubber I bedded the replacement panes with butyl and they've stayed dry as a bone.
It’s been several years and I believe there are more photos somewhere around here, but no I did not use pre-made gaskets. Was just on the boat last week and there were no leaks. I used the 3M black butyl that any auto parts store carries to seal the acrylic pane and hold it in a fixed position. Then used Dow 795 to fill the rest of the channels, which also will keep the panes from settling in the butyl over time. Each pane is essentially double sealed and Heaven help whoever needs to clean them out many years from now.Can you describe this in more detail? Did you use no pre-made gasket material at all, and only butyl? Isn't a gasket needed to keep the glass in the frame? Today, I pulled out two of my port lights and hope to pull the other two tomorrow, and I'd like to re-do the glass-to-frame installation before they get re-installed.
Super rough estimate from Bomon: about $750 a window. That could go up or down depending on things like frame anodizing, etc. I failed to ask if that was CAD or USD (but it would be even better if CAD).
Their process includes Bomon sending templates for me to hold in the opening of the portlight. Then I trace the opening to get an exact dimension of what they should build. I also have some decisions to make, like acrylic or tempered glass. I'm leaning towards acrylic, which scratches more easily but is more break resistant than tempered glass...