After tackling the Block Improvements (see Blog entry: "E35-3 Traveler Upgrades (Control-Ends & Blocks)", which will add 4:1 purchase, ball-bearing sheaves for friction reduction and added block durability (resistance to "parallelogramming"), and better lead-in for an un-cleated line to aid easing, we decided to tackle the original "very abruptly angled" Ronstan Cam Cleats:
To review from the previous Blog Post: We felt our traveler could benefit from the following improvements:
1. Ball Bearing sheaves (reduced crew exertion)
2. Improved purchase from 3:1 to 4:1 via becket addition and double blocks on car (reduced crew exertion)
3. Resistance to "parallelogram" by installing large-base ball-bearing sheaves (durability)
4. Improved easing by switching block plate order (reduced crew frustration)
5. Improved cleating by massaging rope entry on cleat jaws (reduced crew frustration/exertion)
This portion covers #5: Improved cleating by massaging rope entry on cleat jaws (reduced crew frustration/exertion)
Start by disassembling the cleat from the control-end base (this can be done with a slotted-screwdriver, and without disassembling anything else on the control-end)
First, you can see how abrupt the lead-in is on the original cams:
Original Traveler Control-End cam cleat cams from an Ericson 35-3 (1983)
Once apart, begin by using the flat side of a flat/round bastard file to create the general lead-in shape desired:
The cam to the left is original, to the right I've filed the gentle lead-in I desired for easier cleating, only on the outer faces of the 'teeth'.
Next I 'sharpened' each 'tooth' by keeping the flat side of the file on the 'tooth' face, and filing it sharp again:
Above: First tooth complete, started on second.
Continue sharpening all teeth:
The above shows the left cam fully filed and sharpened, the right original.
Next, I used a stainless wire-wheel to smooth-out my filed surface to make a nice surface for the control line to engage:
The above shows the left cam smoothed, sharpened and wire-wheeled; the right original. It's easy to see which one will engage the control-line with less effort...
Finally, repeat for all cams, re-assemble and lubricate the bearings with McLube or similar marine lubricant and enjoy the smooth-engaging cleats!
Ooooohhhh... So SMOOTH!
To review from the previous Blog Post: We felt our traveler could benefit from the following improvements:
1. Ball Bearing sheaves (reduced crew exertion)
2. Improved purchase from 3:1 to 4:1 via becket addition and double blocks on car (reduced crew exertion)
3. Resistance to "parallelogram" by installing large-base ball-bearing sheaves (durability)
4. Improved easing by switching block plate order (reduced crew frustration)
5. Improved cleating by massaging rope entry on cleat jaws (reduced crew frustration/exertion)
This portion covers #5: Improved cleating by massaging rope entry on cleat jaws (reduced crew frustration/exertion)
Start by disassembling the cleat from the control-end base (this can be done with a slotted-screwdriver, and without disassembling anything else on the control-end)
First, you can see how abrupt the lead-in is on the original cams:
Original Traveler Control-End cam cleat cams from an Ericson 35-3 (1983)
Once apart, begin by using the flat side of a flat/round bastard file to create the general lead-in shape desired:
The cam to the left is original, to the right I've filed the gentle lead-in I desired for easier cleating, only on the outer faces of the 'teeth'.
Next I 'sharpened' each 'tooth' by keeping the flat side of the file on the 'tooth' face, and filing it sharp again:
Above: First tooth complete, started on second.
Continue sharpening all teeth:
The above shows the left cam fully filed and sharpened, the right original.
Next, I used a stainless wire-wheel to smooth-out my filed surface to make a nice surface for the control line to engage:
The above shows the left cam smoothed, sharpened and wire-wheeled; the right original. It's easy to see which one will engage the control-line with less effort...
Finally, repeat for all cams, re-assemble and lubricate the bearings with McLube or similar marine lubricant and enjoy the smooth-engaging cleats!
Ooooohhhh... So SMOOTH!
